What I’ve Seen in China

Spending time in China is enough to convince you that you know nothing about it.

  • There is no architecture quite like the public architecture of the Communist Party.  Roads and sidewalks are massive, supposedly wide enough to drive tanks through.  The railroad stations are simply just the largest buildings I’ve ever seen or been in, looking like you could fly an A380 through them.  Government buildings are fronted by sidewalks that are like stadiums.  It communicates authority.  The scale is hard to comprehend if you’ve never been there.
  • The power of the state, in terms of it being manifested, is intermittent but ubiquitous.  After 950 AQI readings (~20 is healthy) on the air quality scale in Beijing, you can count on the next day being completely crystal blue.  How does this happen, is there a natural way?  It’s as if the air itself was reprimanded by the inner sanctum of the CCCP and told about the errors of its ways.
  • Blue skies are not taken for granted.  I once had a taxi driver take me from the airport in Chongqing to my hotel, and for the entire thirty minutes he was exclaiming loudly about how clear and blue the skies were, sticking his head out of the window, looking up, and yes – all while driving.  The air is indeed noxious, and during days when the readings are, say, above 300, visibility on the streets are as if you’re driving through fog.  Above 500, heavy fog.  Above 700, like you’re in a cloud.  The romantic side of me, on these days, can’t help but imagine myself back in London during the Industrial Revolution, or Chicago during the age of the railroads.  It must be what those cities were like: swarming seas of people, raucous roads, barely contained chaos, buildings rising impossibly fast, out of nowhere.
  • Is there another economy that has so many feverish booms and busts, in so compressed a timeframe?  Bubbles roil through the property market, then stock market, then private wealth products market, not necessarily in that order, but predictably every few years.  Technology companies are the same.  Two years ago, I started noticing a lot of green, orange, and yellow bikes on the road, with bike-sharing becoming huge there, way before it did anywhere else in the world.  A few months later, I saw entire sidewalks become parking lots for these bikes.  They were everywhere, the streets were filled with them.  A few months later still, I saw empty lots full of these bikes, rusting and old, unattended.  A few months later, I came back and saw nearly all of the bikes gone, and read that a lot of the companies had gone bankrupt.
  • Parts of the large cities – Shanghai, Shenzhen, Beijing – are more expensive, posh, and futuristic than equivalent places in London, Hong Kong, or New York.  And I will assume that they will only get even more so.
  • The line cutting is maddening and annoying.
  • But I can emphathize with some of it, as it is less a personal act of discourtesy, and more a symptom of an everyone-for-themselves, distrust of rules and the state that leads people to have this interesting mentality that there are rules and laws, there are taboos, and there are absolutely forbidden things that you must never do, and the intersection of those three things are like a Venn diagram – they are not one and the same.  I.e., everyone seems to use a VPN to access all the ‘forbidden’ websites, even at work, no one actually uses the metal detector machines in the subways, queues are optional, and most confoundingly to foreigners – contracts really don’t mean anything.
  • People are honest and straightforward.  They will tell you to your face that you look tired or if you’re fat, or if you need to eat.  In restaurants, you can regularly ask for things not on the menu.  You can ask and talk about anything, and people will tell you, as long as you avoid the subjects of Tibet and Taiwan.  Sometimes when we do market research, we literally go to our competitors and ask their frontline staff about stuff.  For a North/East Asian country, refreshingly informal and with a language devoid of hierarchy and formality.
  • When I first went to China, back in the winter of 2010, there was barely even a smartphone market.  I remember buying a used Nokia with a monochrome screen and using that.  Now just 7 years later, almost the entire population is on WeChat, which is a portal for everything from taxis, medical services, banking, and other payments.  Merchants in the middle of rural villages in China will prefer taking your cash over your credit card, but WeChat payments trump all.  In 2010, I remember my classmates telling me there was a huge difference between kids born in the late 80s and kids born in the 90s.  It was a seven-year difference we were talking about.  Now, you could probably feasibly move those endpoints to the 90s and aughts, and there would be even more of a generation gap still – think about it, two degrees of a generation gap in 20 years.
  • The resultant optimism, though, is refreshing.  This is a country that hasn’t had a major recession in twenty years – economic growth has always rounded to 10%.  Can you imagine that?  It means that everyone is down to try new things.  They’re figuring it out.  There’s no established tradition that needs to be followed, but nor are there established best practices.  In my field, it means that clients sometimes ask for – and expect – insane things that have never worked in the history of the world.  I’ve driven through 2nd and 3rd tier cities to the edge of the city, through rural villages, and then come face to face with resorts on the scale of Dubai.  I’ve driven deep into the mountains and seen waterslides and retail malls that wouldn’t be out of place in Orlando.  I’ve spelunked through entire cities where they built something, and no one showed up – yet.  To be clear, many of these insane projects and endeavors are destined for the dust-bin of history, but the risk-taking and dice-rolling is something to marvel at.
  • There seems to be no established dress code at most of the offices I visit.  Women wear skirts that are shorter than sexy nurse Halloween costumes, and tops that look like bright foliage.  Men wear business casual, loosely interpreted, like rocker boots and hawaiian shirts and whatever it is, it’s untucked.  Everyone is on their own phone during meetings.  Sometimes people answer their own phone during meetings and whisper into it without any repercussions from others.  Business cards were a thing for a few years, but it’s gone straight to WeChat.  Government officials will add you as contacts on WeChat and then send you funny memes.
  • It’s changing rapidly.  And on this note, a lot of the criticisms leveled against Chinese tourists abroad – rude, dismissive of lines, loud and obnoxious, pushy – I recall as things I thought about Koreans about 20 years ago.  Koreans of a certain age, say 50s, will fit this stereotype.  Social norms change and I can see them changing in China too.  Younger people have been abroad, studied abroad, and bring mores and expectations back home.

Basically, it’s growing at an exponential pace and everything you know about it now, will be wrong tomorrow.

If you are interested in the evolution of cultures, the study of cities, if you’re interested in seeing an economy and society change, if you’re interested in history or curious about what the future might look like, visit China.  Don’t miss it.

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